The March wind shrieks, mimicking the cries of dying men. Salt spray wets my face like tears. Waves buffet the beach, clawing desperately at the sand, trying to erase the memory of the horrors that happened here 60 years ago. This is Omaha beach, where over two thousand men lost their lives in an almost botched offensive that was rife with danger from the very beginning.
This beach has always been beautiful, a destination place. Before the Germans took over France it was a vacation spot. After thousands of men gave their lives for the freedom of a nation they perhaps had never seen before, it became a destination spot once more. But now the people come to reminisce or to find their loved ones in the cemetery. I’m walking the same beach where thousands lay dying or dead. These are the same swells that washed men toward the beach, dumping them unceremoniously on to the sand, their cold fingers wrapped around a weapon they never fired. The same water that expunged their blood chases my feet. The black shells I see half buried in the sand belonged to creatures that didn’t exist when the 1st Infantry Division landed. The same kind of wind that caused destructive swells 60 years ago tangles my hair.
Whatever memories remain on this beach, nature is trying hard to erase, but we refuse to let it. Many have come here to remember. I’ve come here to learn.
What spurred these men on to leap from their landing crafts and swim to shore under heavy fire, even after they realized they were jumping out too far from the beach and that most of their tanks sank.
The grasses offer no answers. Instead, they hide bunkers, remnants of landing craft, Rommel’s dragon’s teeth, and trenches. They only tell me that the Germans were prepared to meet the 34,000 troops we finally landed on the beach. They tickle my legs when I walk up the gray stairs toward the cemetery- their touch rough and fleeting as life itself.
Gray birds wheel in the wind, cresting bluffs that rise from the sand and sailing away homeward.
On top of the bluffs sits the American cemetery. Beneath the vibrant green grass rest thousands of men. Pristine white crosses mark their resting places, gold lettering deonotes officers.
In death, we are all the same, relegated to the ground with a marker over us just in case anyone cares. People do care. There are tourists from all over the world walking through rows of crosses. Four German soldiers, in uniform, somberly examine these memorials. Even though it’s been 60 years, I find myself angry. “What are you doing here?” I want to ask. My eighteen-year-old brain believes they have no business being here. Their people killed all of these men.
But these men weren’t alive in 1944. I’m judging them without knowing them, just like Hitler did to thousands of people.
I press my hand against the cool stone of the Wall of the Missing, tracing one of the 1,500 names that have forever been etched into history. Here, the wind only moans as it slides through stone walls and around white crosses, mourning with the rest of us.